Ladakh sits between three and five thousand metres. That single fact shapes everything: how fast you can move, where you sleep on night one, and whether the trip is a pleasure or a headache.
We plan the first three days almost entirely around doing very little in Leh, which is what makes the rest work. After that the passes open up – Nubra over Khardung La, Pangong for the light, and the gompas that are still full of monks rather than ticket desks.