India

The Northeast

Cloud forests, the clearest river in India and living bridges grown from tree roots – the part of the country almost nobody books.
Typical duration
9-13 nights
Best time
October to April
Pace
Active
Overview

The seven states east of Bangladesh are, for most travellers, entirely unknown. They are also among the most rewarding parts of the country: Khasi and Naga cultures with nothing in common with the plains, forests that still hold clouded leopard, and a river you cross by ferry because there is no bridge.

This is not a polished trip. Roads are slow, lodges are simple, and the weather does what it likes. It is our favourite itinerary to plan.

Highlights

What makes this one worth doing

  • The double-decker living root bridge at Nongriat, earned on foot
  • Cherrapunji and Mawsynram, among the wettest inhabited places on earth
  • Kaziranga for rhino, on jeep and on foot with an armed guard
  • A night on a Brahmaputra river cruiser
  • Mawlynnong, kept spotless by the village itself
  • Assam tea estates and a planter’s bungalow to stay in
Best for
Second trips to India, Walking, Photography, Slow travel
Suggested itinerary

One shape it could take

A starting point, not a fixed departure. Every element below can be lengthened, shortened or swapped.

Nights 1-2

Guwahati

Riverside hotel in Guwahati
Kamakhya temple, the river at sunset, and a first taste of Assamese food.
Nights 3-6

Meghalaya

Cottages above the Cherrapunji gorge
Shillong, Cherrapunji, and the long descent to the root bridges at Nongriat.
Nights 7-9

Kaziranga

Forest lodge on the park fringe
Jeep and walking safaris, plus the tea estates on the park’s edge.
Indian rhinoceros, Kaziranga National Park
Nights 10-13

The Brahmaputra (optional)

River cruise cabin
A slow cruise downriver, stopping at Majuli’s monasteries.

Plan this trip

Every journey is quoted individually once we know your dates, party size and pace. The first conversation is free.

Region
Meghalaya, Assam & the Brahmaputra
Duration
9-13 nights
Best time
October to April
Pace
Active
A few pictures
The practical part

Before you ask us to quote

What a quote usually includes

  • Hotels, tea bungalows and simple guest houses
  • Private vehicle with a driver who knows the hill roads
  • Local guides in Meghalaya and Assam
  • Kaziranga permits and safari fees
  • Most meals, as options are limited outside the lodges

Good to know

The walk to the double-decker root bridge is around 3,000 steps down and the same back up – it needs a reasonable level of fitness. Some border areas require permits, which we arrange. Expect simpler accommodation than elsewhere in India.

Detail worth having before you go

Getting there

Guwahati is the gateway, with direct flights from Delhi, Kolkata and Bengaluru. Everything after that is by road, and the roads are the journey.

Nearest airport
Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International (GAU), Guwahati
Permits

Assam and Meghalaya need no permit. If we extend into Arunachal, Nagaland or Mizoram, Indian nationals need an Inner Line Permit and foreign nationals a Protected Area Permit – allow us three to four weeks.

Best months
October to April. Kaziranga is open from roughly November to April.
Months to avoid
May to September – Cherrapunji is one of the wettest places on earth and the hill roads become unreliable
Typical budget
From about Rs 11,000 per person per day sharing, including a car and driver throughout
Currency
Indian rupee. Draw cash in Guwahati and Shillong; the Khasi hills are thin on ATMs.
Language
Assamese and Khasi, with Hindi and English widely used
Health

Malaria prophylaxis is worth a conversation with your doctor for Kaziranga. Leeches are a nuisance on the root-bridge walk in the wet months – salt or repellent on your socks.

What to pack

A rain shell you actually trust, walking shoes with grip, and a dry bag for the descent to Nongriat. The 3,000 steps back up are not a metaphor.

Nobody we know had been. That turned out to be the point - we barely saw another traveller for a week, and the root bridges are worth every one of those steps.
Kavita R.
Kolkata, travelled November 2025
Before you write in

Questions we are asked about this one

How hard is the walk to the double-decker root bridge?

Around 3,000 steps down to Nongriat and the same back up, and the return leg is the one people underestimate. It takes most reasonably fit people four to six hours in total. If that sounds like too much, the single-decker bridge at Mawlynnong is a fraction of the effort and still remarkable.

Do we need a permit?

Not for Assam or Meghalaya, which is where this itinerary spends its time. If we extend into Arunachal, Nagaland or Mizoram then Indian nationals need an Inner Line Permit and foreign nationals a Protected Area Permit – allow three to four weeks for that.

Is Kaziranga open all year?

No. It shuts for the monsoon and generally runs from November to April. That is the same window when the Meghalaya roads are at their most reliable, which is why the whole trip sits in the winter half of the year.
Keep looking

Other places we know well

Make it yours

Tell us how you would change it

Add a week, drop the walking, bring the children, or start somewhere else entirely. We redraw every itinerary from scratch.