The journal

Notes from the road.

Seasonal advice, festival dates and the practical detail that decides whether a trip works — written by the people who plan them.

Practical
Four to six months for most trips. But six specific things sell out a year in advance, and knowing which ones lets you plan the rest at leisure.
When to go
Leh is reachable earlier than most people think, but the passes are not. Here is what is actually open, month by month, and how to plan the first three days so the altitude does not ruin the trip.
Places
Five nights of classical dance performed against the floodlit Sun Temple, in the first week of December. It is our home state’s best evening, and almost nobody outside Odisha books for it.
When to go
Half of India is at its best between June and September, rates fall by a third, and the crowds vanish. Here is where the rain is an asset rather than a problem.

Planning something?

Every piece here started as a question from a traveller. Send us yours.