Leh is reachable earlier than most people think, but the passes are not. Here is what is actually open, month by month, and how to plan the first three days so the altitude does not ruin the trip.
Five nights of classical dance performed against the floodlit Sun Temple, in the first week of December. It is our home state’s best evening, and almost nobody outside Odisha books for it.
Half of India is at its best between June and September, rates fall by a third, and the crowds vanish. Here is where the rain is an asset rather than a problem.