The Golden Temple is open to anyone, at any hour, and the langar – the free kitchen – has never stopped running. Volunteers roll roti on an industrial scale and hand it to whoever sits down, which is roughly a hundred thousand people daily and more at weekends.
Most people give Amritsar a night. It deserves three, one of which should be spent doing nothing but sitting by the tank after dark, when the marble is cool and the recitation carries across the water.