The difference between Tamil Nadu and the temple circuits further north is that nothing here is a ruin. Madurai’s Meenakshi temple takes fifteen thousand worshippers a day; the gopurams are repainted every twelve years in colours that would look garish anywhere else and look right there.
Add the Chettinad mansions, a stretch of coast with 7th-century rock carvings on it, and a narrow-gauge railway into the hills, and it makes a fortnight that never repeats itself.